Archive for May, 2008

Insulate Your Home’s Windows To Save Energy

When we think about insulation we usually think about keeping our homes warmer during the winter. But, insulation is just as important in the summer months in helping to keep our homes cooler!

With the proper insulation you can save money on your cooling bills and be more comfortable in your home! Windows are a major source of energy loss, especially in older homes.

If just one of your windows has a crack as small as 1/16 of an inch you’ll lose as much warm or cold air from your home as a hole about as big as a brick! Imagine how much your losing when you combine all of the small cracks in your windows frames!

If your windows have sash locks, one way of tightening up your windows a little is by making sure the the sash pulls the windows tightly together. If there is any slack or gap in the window frames tighten the sash until it’s snug.

Weatherstripping is an excellent way to stop leakage. You can find it in various materials, but felt is probably the most common type used. It’s available in several thickness and you should purchase the one that will best fill in the amount of gap your windows have.

The weatherstripping can be attached with small tacks or it can be quickly stapled into place around your window! If the weatherstripping is too thick, it will be hard to open the windows! You can also purchase a clear weatherstripping tape that can be applied around the windows.

There are also several types of caulking that you can use to seal your windows. You can purchase caulk in tubes that can be placed into a caulking gun and you can purchase rope caulking. Rope caulk won’t shrink and it’s easy to remove, it also stays flexible.

Rope caulk is just what the name implies, it’s caulking that is in a rope or string form. You simply unroll it and place it where you need it and then you can use your finger to press it into place!

If you choose to use caulk you should purchase an acrylic latex caulk. Although, there are cheaper kinds of caulking, acrylic latex is the best suited for this type of project.

You should also remove any old caulking before applying any new caulk. And, clean the window frames throughly so that the new caulk can adhere to them. You can use turpentine, alcohol or a good soap to clean all the oils off of the frames.

When insulating your windows or doors, don’t forget to insulate the outside as well. Applying insulation to both sides of the window will double your chances of getting a good seal with less leakage.

Although, it’s a more expensive solution, storm windows are one of the best ways insulate your windows. It has been proven in studies that storm windows that fit tightly cut energy loss by around 50 percent!

A more cost efficient way to insulate windows is with plastic sheet kits. A good quality plastic kit will give close to the same results as storm windows in energy savings!

Most kits come with thin cardboard strips to hold the plastic in place, but you can increase the results by using small strips of thin boards. The cardboard strips don’t secure the plastic well enough and will allow air to escape or enter the home.

Plastic kits can be purchased that will shrink with the use of a blow dryer to make them look better and fit snugger. These types of kits also usually allow a better view of the outside since they are more clear.

If your windows are in really bad shape, you can use polyethylene sheeting. It’s a heavy duty plastic that will give a good seal, but it will almost totally block any view of the outside. This may be something you only want to use in extreme cases.

Transform Your Ceiling With Decorative Tiles

If you would like to give your ceiling a whole new look consider installing ceiling tiles. They come in so many designs, it will be easy to find the perfect style to blend in with any decor.

Ceiling tiles are one of the very few ways that you can add some decoration to the ceilings in your home. And, they’re very easy to install with basic knowledge of carpentry! You will however have to be able to remove the light fixture in the ceiling!

Make sure that you turn off the breaker to the room, leave the light on and when it goes off you know that you’ve turned the right breaker off! You can run an extension cord from another room and hook up a light so that you can see to work.

The first thing you’ll want to do is get an accurate measurement of your ceiling. Not only will you need to know the size to make sure you purchase the right amount of tiles, you’ll need to use a frame to install them on.

There are two ways that you can install the tiles, on a wood frame or on a metal track. The tiles edges are tongue and groove, which means that one side of the tile will have a tongue that will slide into a groove in the other tile. Either way you should be able to do an entire room in a days time!

If you choose to use a wood frame you’ll need to purchase enough to space them as wide as the tiles are. You’ll need to place a strip of wood at the center of all of the tile joints, plus you’ll need to create a frame around the wall of the room.

The only real difference in using wood strips and the metal tracks is the way the tiles will be attached. With a wood frame you’ll need to staple the tiles to the ceiling and with the metal tracks the tiles will be attached with small metal clips that fasten right to the track.

You will need to use a stud finder to locate the boards in the ceiling. The framework needs to be attached into a board to make it sturdy and keep the ceiling from literally falling on your head!

You will have to climb a ladder repeatedly around the whole room to locate and mark all of the boards. But, once you’ve gotten them all marked you can use a chalk line to make a mark the length of the ceiling.

If you don’t have a chalk line you can use a yardstick or small piece of thin board to mark them. Of course, this will require two people both on ladders. One will need to hold each end while one of you runs a pencil down the side of the board.

You will also need to mark lines in the other direction, the finishing result will look like a square blocks all over the ceiling. For this set of lines you should start in the main center of the ceiling.

The reason that you need the second set of lines is because this will be the guide for you to know where to attach the frame. For this set your first mark should be in the main center of the room.

This will prevent you from ending up with tiles that are just a few inches wide at one end. If you start in the center the end tiles will come out the same width on both sides and look much better.

You should also measure the width of the room and cut the first tile so that the tiles on each end come out the same size. You will end up with full tiles in the center and smaller tiles going all the way around the edges of the room.

The metal tracks come in pieces that are each four foot long. So, unless your room is divisible evenly by four you’ll need to cut the last piece in each strip.

You can use a pair of metal cutters or even a hacksaw to cut the pieces to the correct length. If you’re using a wood frame, then you can choose to use longer pieces or cut them for easier handling!

The chances of your ceiling being completely flat are pretty slim. Although, usually it’s only a slight difference, it may not seem so slight once all the tiles are in place.

You can loosen some screws in the frames and let them drop down enough to make them level if the ceiling is barely off. But, for larger gaps
you should put some kind of shim between the ceiling and the frame to secure it. You can check this by placing a level across the frame.

Once you’ve gotten all of your frame up and measured and cut the first row of tiles, you’re ready to begin installing them. Just put each tile into place and slide them into each other.

If you’re using a wood frame you’ll just staple each tile into place once you’ve interlocked them together. With the metal track the clips will attach both to the tile and the track to secure them.

For an added extra touch, you can add crown molding around the corners of the ceiling. This will not only hide any small gaps between the tiles and the wall, it will give the project a really nice finished touch!

Keeping Your Child Safe With a Home Swimming Pool

Having a home swimming pool is really great through the hot summer months. They can be a place for birthday parties, gatherings and other family events. But, they are also places that introduce a high risk of danger right into your own back yard especially if you have children, or there’s children in your neighborhood!

There are around 250 children that are under five years old drowned in swimming pools each year! A number that can be greatly reduced with some extra precautions taken to keep children away from the water when you’re not there to supervise.

Pool alarms are another way to increase the pools safety. The alarm sits at the side of the pool and alerts you whenever there are any waves on the pools surface! The monitor is installed inside the home, so that you’ll be able to hear it better.

You can also find wrist bands that have alarms built into them. These are simply worn by the child like a bracelet and will alert you whenever they get wet. They will lock into place so that the child won’t be able to just take it off.

Wrist band alarms are the perfect thing for when you need to run in the house for cold drinks and don’t want to make your child go with you. They’ll be able to play outside or sit by the pool safely and wait for you to return!

One of the best ways to protect not only your children, but any children that may live in your neighborhood is with a fence. All kids seem to love water and the neighbors kids may sneak over to play when no one is at home.

The fence should be at least four feet high and run all the way around the swimming pool. If the pool is off of a deck, you might choose to have a solid fence and enter the pool area from inside the home. But, if you want to have a gate entrance, make sure that you have a good sturdy lock attached to the gate.

You can even purchase gates that will automatically close and latch. This is a great way to make sure that no one forgets to shut the gate after entering or leaving the swimming pool area.

This type of gate will have a latch that should be installed near the top so that children can’t reach it. The gate should be kept in perfect working order at all times, if the gate fails to latch it’s not going to provide safety!

Self locking mechanisms can be purchased and easily added to any existing gate. It’s just a matter of attaching the brackets and the latch with screws. The latches can be placed on the outside or inside of the gate.

Installing a gate alarm can also warn you when the gate is opened. These battery operated alarms mount right to the gate. They come with sensors that need to be attached to the gate and the gate post. They are easily turned off with the push of a button to allow you to use the gate without the alarm going off.

Although you may not consider a mesh fence to be a strong means of protection, they are actually quite tough and strong. A mesh fence can be setup and taken down as needed.

These will only work for swimming pools that have decks. Holes are made in the deck that the aluminum fence posts fit into. The fence is setup in sections that are held together with bolt snaps.

Mesh fences are very convenient, they can be setup or taken down within minutes. Another feature of mesh is that children can’t climb it! And, their feet and hands can’t get caught in the fence!

If your pool is located at a deck connected to your home, make sure that you install an alarm on the door. Most alarms will go off after the door has been open for several seconds to warn you that someone has went out to the pool area.

These alarms can be turned on just when you’re not using the pool. The alarm should be placed higher than the child can reach so that they can’t accidentally turn it themselves.

Just remember that using any or all of these safety features still won’t guarantee that your pool is 100% safe. The best measure of safety is of course, supervision. But, these added extras will still make your swimming pool a lot safer place!

Install Lamp Posts at Your Driveway For Added Safety

Walking around in the dark is dangerous and it’s especially dangerous when the ground isn’t level. For added safety and peace of mind you can easily install lamp posts along your driveway or walkway.

Lamp posts will not only add security, they will add charm to your landscaping. They can be found from simple and plain styles to highly decorative and elaborate styles!

You should always check the instructions that come with the type of lighting that you purchase. But, most lights are installed in pretty much the same manner.

You really should have some experience with wiring before attempting any job that requires you to hook into the electric. If you’ve never done anything like this before you might want to get someone that has to help with this project.

The first thing that you will need to do is to decide exactly where you want the lights to be. You can use anything to mark the spots and if you’re adding one on each side of the driveway, make sure they’re lined up with each other.

Next you will need to dig a hole around 15″ to 18″ to give the post a sturdy foundation. You will also need to dig a trench from the house or nearest electrical supply to the post.

Set the post into the hole and pour quick setting cement all around it. Slowly add just enough water to soak the cement, usually it will take about a gallon of water for each bag of quick set that you use.

There should be a small hole towards the bottom of the post. This hole is for the electric wire to enter into the post, it should be pointed in the direction of the trench you dug for the wire.

You can use a stick, dowel or any other tool to mix the cement throughly. Then use a level to check and make sure that you get the post straight. Once the cement has set you won’t be able to straighten the post!

When the cement sets you’re ready to install the wiring. Make sure that you turn the electric off at the breaker box before working with any wires! You can tap into an electric wire from your garage or the closest place available.

If you’d like a switch so that you can turn the lights off and on, install one before running the wires to the posts. The inside of the garage is a great place for a switch, especially if you’re running your wire from there!

Run the wire from the house down through the trench and then feed it up into the post through the hole and out the top. Use a sharp utility knife to divide the wire. Then use the utility knife or wire strippers to remove about 1/2″ of the wire coating so that the wires are bare.

Follow the manufacturers instructions to connect the wire to the lamp fixture. Wire nuts can be used to hold the wires together, these are small, cone shaped pieces of plastic that have internal threads and screw onto the wires.

After you’ve gotten the wires connected, bolt or screw the lamp fixture into place on top of the post. Any extra wiring can be slid inside the post under the light fixture. Now you’re ready to add the light bulb and glass panes or lamp covering.

Driveway lights can help to make you and your family feel more secure by lighting the way to and from your car. They will also add a lot of beauty to your driveway and yard!

How To Install Sliding or Bifold Doors on Your Closet

If you have a closet with a really wide door, sliding doors are the best way to go. But, they’re also very useful even on smaller door openings when you don’t have a lot of room for a door to swing out!

Whether you choose sliding or bi-fold doors is really a matter of preference. Although bi-fold doors will give you more open space to get into your closet to find something.

Sliding doors will simply just slide apart and create a opening in the center or at the side. But, bi-fold doors will fold up almost completely against the door frame, opening up a wider view of the closet interior!

Before you go shopping for the perfect closet doors, make sure that you take good accurate measurements. The standard size for sliding and bi-fold doors is 80″ tall. Some bi-fold doors can be shortened, but depending on the design, some can’t be cut off.

If you’re door opening is less than 80″ make sure that you purchase doors that can be cut off. If you want a certain design that can’t be shortened, then you can find places that will custom order the size you need.

You should measure both vertically and horizontally, measure both side and both the top and bottom. If you’re lucky both side measurements will come out the same and both the top and bottom measurement will be the same.

If the door opening is wider at the top or bottom, you’ll need to line the opening up. If the difference is just minor, you can usually plane some of the facing off or even cover the misalignment with decorative trims.

If the difference in measurements are quite a bit, you’ll have to rebuild the door opening. This can run into a little work and even mean that you have to remove the drywall and replace it. The drywall around the door will have to be removed, the door frame straightened and then new drywall hung.

Sliding doors can be added to almost any closet or doorway by installing a track at the top of the door jamb. Some doors may require a track at the top and bottom both to guide the door correctly in place.

Hold the jamb in place and use a level to see if it’s completely level. If the track isn’t level the door won’t slide smoothly. Small shims, or thin pieces of wood can be placed under the track to level it up.

Next attach the door rollers on to the top of each door. These rollers fit inside the track and can be adjusted so that the doors hang flush together. You don’t want one door higher than the other!

Now you’re ready to hang the doors and fit them into the bottom track if you’re using one. Some doors will only need a small bracket at each side where the small plastic or metal pivot will sit into to hold the doors against the side frames.

Bi-fold doors are installed in much the same way. You should install the top track first and then install the bottom one. Again, some bi-fold doors will only have a small bracket that goes on each side, while others will require a track all the way across the bottom of the door.

To install the doors, place the pivots into the top and bottom of the door. Put the bottom pivot into the guide or track, then insert the top pivot into the guide. The top pivots are usually spring loaded, just hold the pivot down and then release it into place.

The top guide is adjustable, you can loosen the screw to slide it toward the center or slide it closer to the door frame. The doors can be raised higher or lower by adjusting the bottom pivot, usually it will just screw in or out to adjust the height.

Tighten the top guides pretty tight so that they don’t slip loose while opening and closing the doors. Once you’ve gotten either type of door installed, you can use decorative trim to cover up the hardware or any slight gaps.

How To Install Insulation in Existing Walls

Insulating your home will save you lot’s of money on both heating and cooling bills. It can result in savings of between 20 and 30 percent and it will also make your home a more comfortable place to be!

While newer homes will most always have adequate insulation installed, if you’ve bought an older house there may not be any at all. But, you don’t have to tear out all of the walls to insulate them!

Removing drywall to insulate and then replacing all the drywall  will be very expensive and very time consuming. If you need to insulate existing walls the best way is to use blow-in insulation!

There are several types of insulation materials that can be blown or sprayed inside existing walls. The most common types are cellulose, fiberglass and foam.

Hiring a contractor to do this can be very expensive, but you can do it yourself. Although this may be one project that is best left to someone with a little experience.

With both blowing or spraying methods of applying insulation, you need to make correct measurements and know how much insulation to use. If you don’t you will end up with too much or too little insulation in the walls.

If you’re going to do the job yourself, it’s probably a better choice to go with the blow-in type installation. Many tool rental places have blower equipment, but you will need to rent certain types of blowers for the insulation material you’re using.

Blow-in fiberglass insulation is probably the most popular choice for hard to get to places and attics. It insulates very well, but the proper technique during the application is crucial.

If you’re not real careful during application, fiberglass will fluff. Manufacturers directions for coverage should be followed exactly to achieve the proper results.

The depth plus density level for fiberglass insulation should be clearly stated on the bag. It will usually give you the measurements per square foot of space that you need to fill.

About 85% of cellulose insulation is made up of recycled newspapers! The other ingredients are borate and ammonium sulfate which helps make it flame retardant. As an added bonus these chemicals also help the insulation resist mold, repel insects and rodents.

Dry cellulose is a popular material for insulating walls and other tight spaces. It’s small particles will easily fill up any cracks and corners during installation.

Although it’s a itch free insulation, safety goggles and respirators should be worn when working with this material. The dust is very fine and can take quite some time to settle.

Cellulose can also be applied by wet spraying, but this method isn’t recommended for existing walls. The wet cellulose can damage the interior of the walls before it’s had time to dry.

Cementitious foam is the most effective material for insulating existing walls. The foam will easily spread into the area and provide almost 100% insulating fill around any obstacle.

It will work around and in between bundles of wire or pipes, unlike cellulose or fiberglass insulation which will leave gaps and voids. Another great feature of foam insulation is that it won’t shrink or expand!

During the construction of a new home or building, foam can be applied as soon as the drywall is hung. But, taping and finishing the joints shouldn’t be done for at least 48 hours to allow the foam plenty of time to dry.

Cementitious foam is the most expensive type of blow-in insulation. But, it will provide the best level of insulating and doesn’t create any dust when applied.

To insert the nozzle of the blower small holes will have to be made in the drywall. Then they will of course have to be patched and refinished. But, this is still much easier than replacing the whole wall from start to finish.

How to Choose Floor Covering Alternatives That Are Green!

When trying to do your part to save the environment by going green, flooring may be one area that you don’t think about! But, with the rising demand for green products, flooring manufacturers are doing their part to!

Green flooring can help benefit the environment on a global level, but it can also be a great benefit on a personal level. Green flooring actually reduces the toxicity levels in your home and can help reduce the effects of illness like allergies and asthma!

There are now several types of flooring products that are very earth and environment friendly, but they are also beautiful. The most common types are wood, cork, concrete, natural linoleums, natural carpets and bamboo!

Wood is a natural flooring choice, but not all wood falls into the green category. Some woods are heavily treated with pesticides and many are taken from forests with no regard to the wildlife.

To make sure that your new wood floor meets green standards look for the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification. The FSC requires that loggers and foresters meet 57 guidelines to protect the environment.

There are many different woods that carry the FSC certification. You can find Hickory, Maple, Oak, Cherry, Birch, Walnut and even some exotic woods like Teak.

Just remember when finishing your new green wood floor to use green finishes and stains. Using finishes and stains that are full of chemicals will just defeat the whole purpose of using a green wood!

You’re probably thinking that bamboo should have been included in with the other woods. But, believe it or not, bamboo isn’t a wood, it’s a grass!

Bamboo is a highly renewable source for both flooring and furniture. It grows very fast, can regenerate without the need for replanting and needs very little fertilizers and pesticides.

There’s no official certification method for bamboo. The best way to make sure it’s earth friendly is to purchase it from a reputable dealer that knows where the bamboo came from.

Manufacturers often use formaldehyde as a binder when processing bamboo. So, make sure to check for low levels of this chemical when purchasing. It’s not healthy in the first place, but can cause complications for people with allergies or breathing problems.

It may suprise you to know that cork can be used for flooring! We’re all use to cork boards that are soft enough for push pins, but it is a great choice for flooring.

Cork has several benefits, it serves as a natural way to absorb sounds and feels warm on bare feet. Another great advantage is that insects and mold don’t like cork, so it’s really beneficial to anyone with allergies!

Cork is made from bark taken from a cork tree. The main green benefit is that removing the bark doesn’t kill the tree! Within 7 to 10 years the tree will naturally renew the bark. When purchasing cork flooring watch for an all natural product that don’t have a PVC backing.

Concrete use to be mainly for porches, patios or used under carpeting. But, more and more homeowners are using concrete flooring especially with modern style homes.

The drawbacks of using concrete are that it’s very hard and cold on bare feet especially during the winter months. Walking on concrete for extended periods of time is also known to cause back and foot pain.

However, if you’re planning on using natural stone which is hard and cold anyway, concrete can be a good substitute! Concrete is fairly inexpensive and can be finished in a variety of ways.

It’s easily painted and stained with products made for concrete. And, it can also be stamped with any pattern and scored to look like stones or tiles!

Green carpeting includes natural materials such as sea grass, sisal, jute, wool and even coconut husks! It can also be made from any kind of recycled materials.

Regular carpeting contains high amounts of chemicals such as stain resistors. Green carpets are naturally stain resistant and contain low amounts of chemicals. Just remember to check and make sure that the backing is “green” to and to use green padding products.

Vinyl flooring can emit harmful air pollutants during production, a green alternative is linoleum. Linoleum comes in a variety of natural materials such as limestone, tree rosin, cork, linseed and jute.

The use of these natural materials makes linoleum biodegradable and not toxic, unlike vinyl flooring. Linoleum will also provide you with many years of use. And, it comes in a wide variety of colors and designs.

How to Sand and Prime Drywall for Painting or Wallpapering

If you’ve gotten your drywall ready for sanding and priming, you’ve already discovered that working with drywall is a messy job! But, sanding it is where it gets even messier!

It is also one part of the drywall process that you will definitely want to wear safety goggles and a mask! The fine powder will be flying everywhere and you don’t want to get an eye full or breathe it into your lungs!

If your drywall project is a remodeling job that was done in an existing home, you’ll need to protect the other rooms from the dust. You can hang plastic over any doors to keep the mess contained to the room that you’re working on.

Doing any ceiling work can be a back and neck breaking job! If you’re working on the ceiling you really should invest in a pole sander. With a pole sander you can stand on the floor and do all of the over head work!

Most pole sanders also come with swivel heads that make it much easier to maneuver. They also help the job go much quicker since you’re not having to climb up and down a ladder to reposition it each time you finish an area.

If you’re going to use sandpaper to finish the drywall you should choose one that has between 120 to 150 grit. Open screen can also be used and is probably the best choice as the dust will fall through instead of building up like it will on sandpaper.

If you’ve taken your time and gotten all of the joint compound really smooth, you might want to just use the wet sanding method! Using a sponge that’s just damp, you can easily smooth all of the joints.

The wet method is great because it won’t create all of the messy dust that using sandpaper will cause. Just make sure that you keep the sponge clean by rinsing it out frequently, the moistened joint compound will quickly build up.

Whether using regular sand paper or a wet sponge you have to be very careful not to remove too much of the joint compound. Patience is definitely the key word, if you remove too much you’ll undo all of the hard work you did in preparing the drywall joints and will end up having to redo them!

Priming the walls is a step that many people want to skip, but it’s not advisable! There will be a visible difference between the paper covered drywall and the joint compound on the seams.

Although the difference isn’t just in the way it looks. The different textures can cause paint to soak in more in some areas than others. Just as the bare joint compound becomes soft when water is applied, the paint will also soften it and it will soak it up.

Using a good primer will help to hide any imperfections and texture differences on your walls. It will also provide a smooth, even finish when applying paint.

There are several types of primers available and the type you need will depend a lot on what you plan to do to your walls. If you’ve decided to paint your walls use a primer that is made specifically for paint.

If you’re going to be applying wallpaper to the walls, you should choose a primer that contains sizing. Sizing will help the wallpaper adhere better and also make it easier to remove later if you need to.

You will need to apply the primer according to the manufacturers instructions for the type you purchase. After the recommended drying time you’ll finally be ready to either apply paint or wallpaper!

How To Properly Tape and Fill Drywall Joints

Finishing your drywall project is probably going to be more time consuming than hanging the drywall! Joints that aren’t taped and finished properly will be very noticeable even after the walls are painted!

Before you start to do any taping, you should check all of the joints for protruding nails or screws. All of the nails and screws should be sunk just below the drywall surface.

Your first instinct may be to run your hand over the joints, but you should use a wide putty knife or other wide flat tool. Hold it as flat against the wall as you can and run it down the length of each joint watching for snags!

Before applying the drywall compound make sure that you mix it. If you’re using a pre-mixed compound just mix it slightly, over mixing can create air bubbles that will leave sink holes after it dries!

For the first coat of compound you should use a putty or taping knife that is at least 5″ wide. Holding the knife at a vertical angle, spread a generous amount over the seam making sure it fills the crack.

Once you’ve gotten the seam covered with joint compound, apply the joint tape to the center making sure that you cover the seam. Just press it lightly into the joint compound to hold it into place.

After you’ve completely covered the joint with tape, you’re ready to flatten it against the wall. Start working at the center of the joint and flatten the tape to the floor, then start at the center again and flatten it up to the ceiling.

You will need to apply a firm, even pressure when flattening the tape. This will scrape off some of the excess joint compound you applied to the joint and also help fill any cracks you might have missed.

Just make sure that you leave a layer of compound under the tape or it will eventually come loose after it dries. Never use a small knife to flatten the tape. A wide knife will flatten the tape, remove the excess compound and leave the compound under the tape in place!

While you’re flattening the tape onto the joint, clean your knife often. The thin compound on the knife will dry quickly and become hard leaving grooves in the wet joint compound!

After you’ve gotten the tape flattened, gently go back over the joint with a thin layer of compound. You want to cover the tape, but you want to be able to still see it through the layer of compound.

To tape the inside corners apply thin coats of joint compound to the seam and both sides. Cut a piece of joint tape to fit the area and then fold it in half. Using your hand just lightly press the tape into place in the corner.

Use the knife to smooth it out and remove any excess compound. Then apply a thin top coat of compound to each side, make sure that the tape is still visible through the compound.

It is best to apply thin metal covers to all of the outside corners of the drywall at doorways or windows. These will help protect the drywall from getting chipped and gouged if something bumps against them.

If you have used metal covers, you will need to fill the small ridges at the edges as you cover the corners with compound. The wide knife will extend beyond this ridge and ensure that it’s filled with the compound.

Go back over all of the nail or screw heads with another thin layer of joint compound. The joint compound covering them will shrink some after drying, so this process will need to be repeated.

After you’ve gotten all of the joints and corners taped, let the joint compound dry over night. Taping levels off all of the drywall surface, the next steps will help you get all of the surfaces smooth and ready for painting!

The fill coat takes a little more patience and you’ll be using less pressure on the joint compound. For this step you’ll need a wider knife, a blade that is from 7 – 12″ is recommended, but the wider the better.

You will need to smooth the joint compound out in three different strokes this time! Apply compound to the joint, then go down each side with the knife and then down the middle.

For the side strokes you’ll need to apply a little more pressure with the outside of the knife. You want a nice even edge while letting the inside of the knife just glide slightly over the joint.

Smooth over the center with a even pressure, this time you don’t want to be able to see the tape through the compound! This step will also help to cover up and of the holes that may have occurred when the compound shrunk over the nails and screws.

The corners and edges will need to have a second coat of joint compound in the same way. To make it much easier you can purchase a corner knife at most local hardware stores!

How To Install Ceramic Wall Tiles

Ceramic tiles aren’t only beautiful, they’re very long lasting and easy to take care of. They’re also very durable and it’s almost impossible to stain or mark them!

While tiles are traditionally used in bathrooms and kitchens they can be used to make any room more beautiful. Contrary to what most people think ceramic tiles are not hard to install.

Ceramic tiles come in several different sizes, you can find them as small as 1 inch and as large as 18 inches square. The 1 inch squares are normally sold attached to a backing and in 12 inch squares so they’re not so time consuming to install.

They also come in almost any color imaginable to match any decor. You can find solid color tiles, textured tiles and even find tiles with designs such as flowers or geometric lines.

What you may not know about tile is that all tiles aren’t water resistant! Ceramic tiles that are called non-vitreous actually absorb any water that they come in contact with!

Non-vitreous tiles should never be used anywhere that there’s lots of water or moisture. Tiles that will resist water are called semi-vitreous and impervious. While semi-vitreous will absorb some water, impervious won’t absorb any at all.

You can install ceramic tiles on almost any solid, flat surface. Cement backer board is actually the best wall covering to install  tiles on. It’s much like drywall, but it’s resistant to moisture.
It’s perfect for showers, bathrooms and as a back splash at sinks.

When installing ceramic tile you want to start in the center of the wall and work your way out to the sides. This way the tiles on both ends of the walls will be about the same size.

Measure carefully and find the center of your wall, you can mark it using a level to make sure that the line is straight. You need to mark both the center horizontal and center vertical lines.

It’s easier if you find the center vertically first, then measure how high the wall is and divide that in half. Measure down the line half way and make a vertical mark so that you end up with a big plus symbol.

Apply a coat of the tile adhesive to one side of the plus symbol at the direct center. You should only work on a 3 X 3 foot section at a time so that the adhesive don’t become to dry to hold the tiles securely in place.

You should also purchase tile spacers, these will be placed at the sides of each tile to make sure the spacing is the same. The spacing can make a lot of difference when applying the grout, it will be very noticeable if some tiles are closer or wider apart.

Install your first tile so that the mark comes out in the center of the tile. You will need to use a slight twisting motion with each tile to make sure the adhesive is covering the back. Then just press the tile firmly in place at the correct area.

You’ll need to cut the tiles to get them to fit correctly at the ends of each row. The easiest way to cut them is with a ceramic tile cutter. You probably don’t own one, but they can be rented at most tool rental stores.

Measure and mark the cutting guide onto the tile. Then you just use the tile cutter to score the marks and snap the tile at the scored line. You can smooth out any rough edges with sandpaper around 80 grit.

A ceramic tile cutter will only cut straight lines. If you need irregular tiles or cuts that go around wall fixtures you’ll need to use tile nippers.

Tile nippers “nip” out little pieces of tile at a time. If the cut is complicated it may take a little while to get the exact shape you need. Just take your time and the tile will fit into place much better.

Once you’ve gotten all of the tiles installed let them set overnight so the adhesive can dry throughly. Before you start applying the grout, you’ll need to remove all of the tile spacers.

There are several types of grouting that is used for tiles. The type you will need to purchase depends on the spacing of your tiles. If the space is 1/8″ or less you can use un-sanded grout, for any space over that size purchase sanded grout.

If the tiles were installed any where that there’s water or moisture, purchase a grout that is waterproof. Read the label to make sure, or ask a sales agent. If it’s not waterproof it won’t last long in bathrooms or around sinks.

The grout should be applied at a 45 degree angle and just like when you installed the tiles, work in a 3 X 3 foot area at a time. After you’ve completed the area, wipe off any excess with clear water and a sponge.

Give the grouting about 30 minutes to dry and go back over each section with a soft, dry cloth and buff out any haze on the grout. Let it dry for another day and then buff off any more haze that’s appeared.

If the tile was installed in a bathroom or kitchen area you’ll need to seal the bottom where it meets the tub or sink. Use a mildew resistant silicone caulk to prevent water from getting behind the tiles and ruining the wall.

You can use your finger to smooth the caulking along the bottom. Adding a small drop of dish detergent will keep the caulk from sticking to your fingers!

After the grout has cured for about a week, you should apply a grout sealer to it. The sealer will keep stains or dirt getting in the grout and making it look dark or dirty!

Fire Alarms Double Your Chance for Surviving a Fire!

Fire safety is one of the highest concerns of home safety! Having fire alarms installed in your home can be the difference between life and death if a fire breaks out. Fire alarms can double your chances for surviving a fire!

Installing a fire alarm is a simple job that you can do yourself. There are three main types of fire alarms, Optical, Ionisation and heat alarms.

An Ionisation alarm works by closely monitoring the quality of the air in your home. These alarms will detect particles that are so small they can’t be seen or even smelled.

They’re very prompt in alerting you to fires that are hot and fast burning. However, since they often detect even common particles such as dust, steam and even small insects they are prone to false alarms.

As the name implies, Optical alarms work by actually seeing the smoke. A small infra red beam is emitted onto a photocell and the alarm is set when smoke interrupts this beam.

Optical alarms are more efficient for fires that are slow burning and produce a lot of smoke. While this type of alarm is less prone to produce false alarms, there are occasions they still will go off without the presence of a fire.

Heat alarms come in two basic types, Rate of Rise and Fixed Temperature alarms. Heat alarms are less sensitive to particles of dust in the air and require little maintenance.

Rate of Rise alarms will measure changes in the room temperature and compare them against an absolute temperature. This type of fire alarm has a high rate of false alarms as they’re often set off by steam from a boiling cooker and heat from opening the oven door.

Most Fixed Temperature alarms will activate when the temperature reaches around 136* F. This type of alarm is the best for use in or near the kitchen, the alarm won’t be set off as easily by steam or heat from appliances!

The type of fire alarm you choose to use is pretty much a personal preference. But, it is highly recommended that you use a combination of the types for more adequate notifications!

Fires aren’t all the same, some can engulf a home in minutes while others smolder and take time to consume a structure. If you ever have a fire, there’s no way of knowing what kind of fire it will be. So, using a variety of fire alarms is important.

Interconnected alarms are becoming more and more popular. This is a system of different types of alarms that are all connected. When one goes off they will all go off!

Large homes can really benefit from an interconnected system. While a fire may be burning out of control on one end of a large home, you may not hear the alarm if you’re in the other end. This system will alert you no matter where the fire starts from!

Basic fire protection can be obtained from battery operated alarms. They are very easy to install since they require no wiring and maintenance is as easy as changing the batteries on a regular basis. But, smoke alarms that run off electricity and have a battery back up are recommended over a basic battery type.

For people who are hearing impaired, there are fire alarms that use strobe lighting as the alarm. These can also be used with regular fire alarms as an extra warning.

Installation and maintenance are the most important factors in properly working fire alarms. On the average of 12% of home fires the alarms failed to go off due to low or dead batteries.

The U.S. Fire Administration recommends that there are alarms installed on each floor of your home. There should be alarms in the bedrooms if there are electrical appliances such as televisions.

If you have a two story home and only one fire alarm, it should be placed close to the bedrooms. The best area is at the top of the stairs where it can easily be heard if you’re asleep.

Most smoke alarms are mounted onto bases that just screw into the ceiling. The best position for an alarm is the center of the room. However, they should never be installed near light fixtures that emit heat!

Basic smoke alarm maintenance should include a battery check on a weekly basis and a battery change at least once per year. You should also keep your alarm clean. Cobwebs and dust can be removed with a damp cloth or vacuum cleaner.

How To Fix A Sticking or Rubbing Door

We’ve all had one of those stubborn doors that just won’t close without that extra shove! It’s really aggravating, but left unrepaired it will eventually destroy the doors frame.

Whether your door is rubbing the frame, the floor or your new carpeting seems to be a little too thick, you can easily remedy the problem. All it takes is a little cutting or trimming with a plane.

The first step is to figure out exactly why the door is hard to shut. The easiest place to begin is with the hinges, check to make sure that they are securely fastened to the door frame.

Over time the hinge screws can work loose and cause the door to droop! If the screws are loose and won’t tighten, they’re stripped and will have to be replaced with longer or larger ones.

You will have to make sure the screws you use have flat or recessed heads. A screw with a round head will protrude and the door still won’t shut properly.

Don’t remove all of the screws at once, replace them one at a time and tighten them as much as you can. Once you’ve replaced them all, shut the door and see if this has fixed your problem.

Another quick fix to check for is to see if the door frame has came loose. Open the door and lift it up while holding on to the knob. If the door raises up even a little, the frame may just dropped a little.

If this is the case, you can use long screws to pull the frame in tighter to the wall foundation board. I have often just taken a hammer and wrapped a towel around the head and tapped my door frames back into place!

If you’re lucky loose hinge screws or a loose frame board was the cause. But, if after checking the screws and the frame they’re all tight and secure, you’ll have to do a little more work.

Check the door edges to see where it’s scuffed. If the door has rubbed for awhile the paint will be worn off or at least scuffed, the scuff locations will give you the location of the problem!

If the door is just slightly rubbing on the top or side, you might be able to just sand off the excess without removing the whole door. Of course, if the problem is on the bottom of the door you’ll have to take the door down to get to it.

Unless you’re willing to put a lot of time and elbow grease into it, sandpaper probably won’t work. You’ll need a belt sander with a medium coarse belt to actually get anywhere in a fair amount of time!

If you’ve never used a belt sander, be very careful and patient. Slow is the key word here! If you get in a big hurry you may end up with a large gap and have to replace the door. Sand over the area a few times and check it, repeat this process until you can close the door easily.

Once you’ve sanded enough off that the door closes properly, then you can use regular sandpaper to smooth the surface by hand. For this you will need to use a fine grit sandpaper. If the spot you fixed shows, then you’ll need to repaint the area and maybe the whole door.

If the door is rubbing really bad or the new carpet is too thick, you’ll have to cut a strip off of the door with a circular saw. Measure carefully or you’ll end up with a door that’s too short!

It may take a little more work, but if you’re not sure exactly how much to cut, do it a little at a time. Cut a thin strip and then rehang the door and try it before cutting more off. Just keep cutting thin strips until the door fits!

Sometimes if the door is just slightly hanging, you can even use a plane to just shave off some of the wood. No matter what you use to remove part of the door, whether it’s a sander, a saw or a plane, just do it a little at a time. It’s better to have to cut it several times than to do it once and remove too much!

How To Choose the Right Landscaping Contractor

Landscaping is one of the best ways to build your homes equity! Adding landscaping to your home that is well designed and properly installed can increase the value of your home by 14 to 17 percent!

There are probably many advertisements for landscaping contractors in your area. Choosing the right contractor for any job isn’t easy and it can even be a little scarey!

There are several guidelines to use when choosing a contractor. With a few extra steps, a lot of knowledge and a little investigative work your project should turn out perfect!

First you should determine what you want the contractor to do. Many people prefer to do some of the basic, easier work themselves to save some money. Before even talking to a contractor, decide whether you want to do some of the work or if you want them to do the entire job.

One of the first things you should do is investigate the company. Though new companies may be very reliable and competent, older more established companies usually have more experience.

Find out how many years the company has been in business. It’s a good idea to check with the Better Business Bureau to find out about the companies reputation.

Don’t be afraid to ask the contractor for references! Only the ones that have had customer satisfaction problems will get “testy” when you ask to see some examples of their work!

If you get references, drive by and check out the landscaping they’ve done. If they give you phone numbers, call the customer and ask them about the experience they had with the company.

Another thing that you may want to know is if the company has all of the certifications and licenses they’re required to have by law. Don’t just assume that because it’s a business they follow the local laws.

Insurance is of major importance. By law the company should have worker’s compensation, liability and comprehensive insurance. This could cause huge problems if one of the companies employees were to get injured while working on your property.

It’s better to make sure that they have the right insurance coverage than to end up being sued! Their insurance should also cover any unexpected damages they do to your home or property. A run-away wheel barrow could put a huge dent in your new car!

It would be great if all landscapers had some kind of training. But, if you’ve ever seen ads for these types of jobs, most don’t require any formal training.

It’s alright for a landscaping company to hire people without training or experience to do the labor. But, there should at least be a supervisor on the job that has a lot of landscaping knowledge to make sure the job is done right!

Everyone knows that a small company just starting out can’t build up a reputation without getting jobs! Using a new company is fine and you may even get a better deal from someone eager to get their start. Just make sure you ask for references and follow through on checking them out!

Never hire any contractor without finding out what kind of guarantee they offer. Find out exactly what is covered and what will be replaced free and what you’ll be expected to pay for.

If the plants, shrubs or bushes they planted die next week, will they replace them? If a retaining wall collapses in a few months, will they rebuild it?

Last but definitely not least, get everything in writing! Don’t ever sign anything without reading it and make sure that the guarantee and all the details are in the contract before signing it!

With a little patience and some extra steps you’ll have a beautifully landscaped yard to be proud of. You’ll be glad that you went the extra mile in the long run!

How To Repair Small Holes, Burns and Flaws In Your Carpet

Replacing your carpet can be a major expense and a major job! It’s not as simple as throwing it out and getting a new one when something happens to damage your carpet.

No matter how careful you are, things can happen to your carpet. There’s very little you can do for some things, but most small holes and damaged areas can be repaired to extend the life of your carpet.

If you have homeowners insurance you may want to check your policy coverage. Many insurance companies will actually cover the damage on carpets and you might be lucky enough to get completely new carpet installed!

You can literally shave away light burn spots that are mostly on the surface of the carpet. Of course, this won’t work if the carpet is a flat weave. But, for shags and other thick type of carpet it works very well.

Just be very careful not to cut to much of the carpet away and make a bald spot, or to cut yourself. Use a razor blade and just lightly trim the melted threads off in thin layers.

Another way of repairing damaged carpet is with the “carpet transplant” method! It’s better if you have a scrap piece of the carpet, but you can get replacement fibers from hidden spot on your carpet, such as a corner.

With a sharp razor blade, trim all of the damaged fibers down to the carpet backing. Using a small tool apply a waterproof adhesive to the bare carpet backing. This will take patience, you don’t want to get the adhesive on the rest of the carpet!

One by one you can press the transplanted fibers onto the area with a toothpick or other small object. Make sure that you press the fiber into the adhesive and let the finished repair dry for at least 24 hours.

If the damage is beyond repair, you can often still repair it with a plug! Just like the name implies, you will cut out the bad section and then plug it with a new one!

The main problem with this type of repair is that over time your carpet wears and fades. Replacing a piece of it with a remnant piece or carpet from another part of the room is likely to leave a noticeable spot!

With a utility knife cut all the way through the backing to remove the damaged area. You should cut the hole as small as possible to help improve the chances of the repair being less prominent.

If possible when cutting the bad part out, cut it in a triangle shape instead of a rectangle or square. You can use the piece that you cut out for the pattern in cutting the “plug” piece to get a more accurate fit. However, for the best look, you’ll want to cut the plug just slightly larger.

Many people don’t realize that carpet has a grain. You can check the grain of your carpet by rubbing it with your hand. Watch to see which direction you have to rub it to fluff it and which direction you rub to smooth it out. Try to cut the plug piece with the same grain direction as your carpet.

Carpet tape can be used for this type of repair if it’s a fairly big spot. But, using carpet tape will probably be something that you later regret!

If it’s a small area, it will be a little hard to get the carpet tape in the right position. But, the main problem will be when you clean your carpet!

Carpet tape isn’t water resistant! So, when you need to clean your carpet with a carpet cleaning machine or steam cleaner, the patched area will come loose!

The best way to make sure that the plugged piece of carpet stays in place is to use a waterproof adhesive. If you want to keep the patch from sticking to the floor, cut a piece of thick material such as burlap and place it under the hole using a screwdriver or blunt end knife.

The repair will look better if the fibers are a little crowded, this is why the repair plug should be just a little larger than the actual hole.

Before you apply any adhesive, lay the patch inside the hole to check for fit and look! If the patch is too big you can easily just trim some of it off as long as it’s not glued down!

Never apply adhesive to the plug patch, you will want to apply it to the fabric patch that you placed between the carpet and the floor. It’s also better if you glue the fabric patch to the carpet backing.

You can gently lift the carpet at the hole and use any type of flat object to spread some adhesive around the hole on the backing and then press it onto the fabric piece.

Once the fabric piece is glued to the carpet backing and you’ve made sure that the plug fits correctly you’re ready to glue it into place! Apply the adhesive to the fabric patch and edges of the existing carpet and press the plug patch into place.

It’s very important that the spot isn’t disturbed for at least 24 hours to allow it to dry properly. You can place a chair or some other piece of furniture over it to protect it. You should also allow another 24 hours before trying to clean the spot.

The best advice to follow when trying to perform any repair that requires removal of some of the carpet is to remove as little as possible. And, take your time to make sure that you don’t get any of the adhesive on the surrounding carpet.

How To Grow Vegetables in Containers

In the “good ol’ days” everyone had a garden and raised lot’s of fresh vegetables. But, today’s lifestyles either find us without the time to take care of a large garden or without the space to have one!

Not having the time or space for a garden, doesn’t mean that you can’t grow your own vegetables! Many vegetables are now available in compact dwarf and bush varieties and are perfect for container gardening!

The things that you can grow will depend on the size of the containers that you have space for. You can even use your deck for a vegetable garden and have tomatoes growing instead of flowers!

There are many shapes and sizes of containers and the materials will vary. The container you choose is really a matter of preference. Whether it’s clay, plastic or wood, the most important thing is size and adequate drainage.

The container must have several holes in the bottom to allow the water to drain. Standing water can rot the roots and your plants will soon die. You can purchase drill bits for almost any type of material and make extra holes in the container.

A container sitting on a solid surface won’t drain well. You will need to raise it by placing some blocks or something under the edges to unblock the holes.

The size of your container will depend on what you want to grow in it. For plants such as radishes, peppers, lettuce and herbs that have compact roots, you can have a container that is as little as 8 inches deep!

Vegetables like tomatoes, cucumbers and beans have larger roots and will require a deeper container. These types of vegetables grow really well in half barrels, large tubs or large pots. You can even use five gallon buckets, if the appearance isn’t an issue!

Many experienced container gardeners recommend using a soil-less potting medium. This type of mix drains faster than dirt, it’s lightweight and easier to move if necessary and less prone to diseases.

Most gardening centers carry soil-less potting mix, but you can make your own. Mix equal parts of peat moss, loamy soil and sand, then heat the mixture in the oven for about an hour to kill any bacteria or insects!

The number of plants for each container should follow the spacing guidelines on the back of the seed packets. The plants will die if they’re crowded and don’t have ample room for both the roots and the plant to grow.

All of the seeds won’t germinate, so plant more than you need and thin them out once they’ve sprouted and gotten a good start. If you’re planning on having several container of one vegetable, you can start them all in one and then transplant them to the other containers.

The downside to using soil-less potting mixtures is that there’s no nutrients. So, if you decide to use this type of growing medium you will need to fertilize your plants regularly.

There are many different types of fertilizers available and some are even formulated for specific plants. If you’re not sure what type to use, talk to someone at your local garden center.

If finding time to fertilize is a problem, purchase fertilizer that is time released. With this type you can add it to the soil and then it will slowly release the nutrients automatically.

Correct watering is essential for any plant and some will need to be watered everyday. The plants water requirements can also usually be found on the seed packets or the plastic sticks that are in the pot when you buy the plant.

The best and easiest way to water your plants is with a spray attachment on your water hose. Just be sure to spray out some of the water before watering the plant, a hose that’s laid in the sun will be full of hot water!

Plants should also be watered either early in the morning or late in the evening. The hot sun can cause water burns on the plants leaves that are wet or have water drops on them!

Gardening can be therapeutic and very relaxing. But, it can also be very rewarding when you creating a salad or dish from home grown vegetables!

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