Archive for March, 2008

How To Easily Repair Holes in Drywall

If you’ve got little ones running around, chances are there’s a few unsightly holes here and there in your drywall! But, kids aren’t the only ones that can add yet another hole to your wall!

I have been known to bump the wall when moving a chest or other piece of furniture! No matter how careful you are things can and usually do happen!

Another major cause of holes or dents in drywall is door knobs! But, there’s no need to call a professional, you can do these repairs yourself and save lots of money!

Some times for one reason or another a nail may just start to ease out of the drywall. This is a easy fix, just place a nails a few inches above and below the loose nail.

Dimple the nail into the wall, dimpling is when the nails head is slightly below the surface of the drywall. Use a flat tool or wide putty knife to fill the dents with joint compound.

Once it has dried completely, apply another thin coat. This time smooth the compound out past the edges of the dimple. After it has dried, you just lightly sand it until it’s flush with the walls surface.

Small holes are considered anywhere from one inch in diameter up to five inches. When repairing any hole, you should always make sure to clean the area of any loose drywall or paper.

You can use screen wire or purchase a special mesh material that is made specifically for patching holes. You’ll need to cut the screen or mesh at least 2″ larger than the hole.

Tie a small piece of string around a pencil or dowel and insert the other end into the screen and tie it as well. The screen can be easily bent to be inserted into the hole. Once the screen is inside the hole pull on the pencil to pull the screen flush with the inside wall.

While your still holding the string, fill in the hole with joint compound. Start working at the edges of the hole and make your way to the center.

Use a piece of tape to secure the string to the wall. The joint compound will actually adhere to the screen and help hold it in place. Once you’ve allowed enough time for it to completely dry, use a knife to cut the string off.

You must always remember that joint compound will shrink as it dries. Any, repair will require you to at least apply two coats. After the compound has dried and you’ve removed the string, apply another thin coat to even out the finish. Let it dry and then sand it for a finished look.

Larger holes up to around 8″ in size, require a little more work! Joint compound will work well on smaller holes, but it won’t repair large ones. You’re going to need a scrap piece of drywall for this project!

Measure the size of the hole and cut a piece of drywall at least one inch larger than the holes width or height. You are going to want to cut it in a square or rectangular shape.

Hole the cut piece up over the hole, straighten it and use a pencil to mark around the edge. Use a utility knife to cut the drawn shape out of the the wall around the hole.

Cut carefully, you’re going to be putting the piece you cut into the square that you’re cutting out. You can always make the square hole larger, but if you cut it too large you’ll have to prepare another piece of scrap drywall to use for the repair.

After you’ve cut the square, just keep checking your scrap piece to see if it fits until you get it the right size. Depending on the size of the hole, you may need to attach strings in the same way as you did to repair the small hole.

You can use an awl or a thin nail to make a whole in the center of the piece. But, this time you will need more than just one string, especially if you’re repairing a hole that is in the center of the wall studs.

Attaching two strings will be enough for some holes, but you can use as many as you think you need. Knot the ends of the strings together on the back side of the piece of drywall to hold them in place.

To make sure the strings won’t slip out of the hole, either make a large knot or you can also tie the ends to a small object such as a nut or washer.

Apply a liberal amount of joint compound to all the edges of the replacement piece of drywall. When placing it into the hole, you’ll need to apply some pressure. But, don’t push it to hard or it will end up inside the wall!

You just need it to be flush with the rest of the wall. Once it’s in place tape the strings taut to the wall. Depending on how many you chose to use, you may have strings tapped on all four side of the patch!

Again, once it’s completely dried, you’ll need to apply another coat around the edges. Smoothing out the joint compound as much as you can as you apply it will prevent a lot of unneccessary sanding! Sand the area after it dries and it’s ready to paint!

The drying time will vary, smaller holes patched early in the day may be ready for painting by late in the evening. But, it is recommended to wait at least 24 hours between coats and after your last coat to sand and finish your project.

When purchasing joint compound, you may want to try to find one that already contains a primer. There are many available that don’t need extra preparation for painting.

Joint compound with primer will save you the extra expense of buying a separate primer. But, it will also save you quite a bit of time. Applying primer is just another step to complete and something else that will have you waiting while it dries!

How To Give Your Lawn Mower a Spring Tune-Up!

You may not realize it, but your lawn mower needs routine maintenance in the same way that your car does. Keeping your lawn mower in top shape will not only make it run better, it will also make it last longer!

You should give your lawn mower a good tune-up every spring. If you don’t use your lawn mower a lot, you may be able to skip a season. But, whether you use it a lot or not, it’s been sitting all winter and really needs a little care!

There are only three main steps to getting your lawn mower ready for a hassle free season! You should change the oil, the spark plug and the air filter. With very little tools and time, you can keep your lawn mower running at it’s best!

To be extra safe, remove the spark plug wire anytime you work on your lawn mower. It’s highly unlikely that it’s just going to start and run on it’s own, but better safe than sorry!

Choosing the right type of oil and filters is very important. It’s also important that your spark plug is gapped at the right specification for your model. Spark plugs are usually pre-gapped at the factory, but it may not be set for your exact lawn mower.

A gapping tool is very inexpensive, usually under a couple of dollars. If you don’t already have one, pick one up when you buy the plug, the same tool can be used on your car’s spark plugs!

If you’re not sure about the information for your lawn mower, you can check your owners manual, ask a salesperson or even search your model and make online.

Before removing the spark plug make sure that you clean the area around it. An old rag will work, but it’s better to use a small brush. You don’t want any old grass or dirt to fall inside the motor!

Then use a socket wrench to remove the old plug. You’ll have to have a deep welled socket that will fit over the plug. Check the new plug to make sure it’s gapped correctly and then just screw it into place! If you’re done working on your mower, remember to replace the plug wire!

Your lawn mower will either require a paper air filter or one made of foam. To replace a paper air filter, just remove the cover and replace the old filter with the pleats facing outward.

A foam air filter is inside a filter unit, but it’s still just a matter of unscrewing the cover. However, the unit is removable and you’ll need to clean it thoroughly. Usually a little kerosene will remove all of the old sludge from the unit.

The new piece of foam will also need to be soaked in clean oil. Once it has completely soaked, use an old rag to squeeze out the oil. Insert it into the unit and replace the cover.

The first thing you’ll want to do when changing the oil is to use an old rag to clean any dirt or debris off of your oil tank. You may even need to use an old toothbrush, you want to make sure that nothing falls into the oil tank.

There will be a small plug on the bottom of your oil tank. Before unscrewing the plug, you’ll need to have a container to catch all of the old oil. Removing the dip stick will provide air for the oil to completely drain.

Once you’ve got the container in place you’re ready to remove the drain plug. You can use a pair of vise grips to loosen plug and then remove it with your fingers.

If the oil is really dirty, or it’s became thick and clumpy, clean the drain plug and the dip stick. Replace the drain plug and just tighten it to a good snug fit.

Although most lawn mowers don’t use a oil filter, there are some that do. If your model requires an oil filter you will want to change that as well.

It will be one of two types of filters, the screw on type like a car uses or a canister filter. Just wait until you’ve drained all of the old oil before removing the filter.

The screw on type is simply screwed off and replaced the same way. The canister type will be inside a housing, there will be a bolt in the center of the housing that holds it in place.

Just remove the bolt and lower the housing a little to remove the old cartridge. Place the new cartridge inside the housing and replace the bolt and tighten it back up.

Now, your ready to fill it back up with clean oil! Before adding the new oil just remove any blocks that you used to raise the lawn mower and make sure it’s sitting nice and level!

Anytime that you change the oil, you should start your lawn mower and let it run for a little while. Watch around the oil tank and oil filter to make sure there aren’t any leaks. If you do notice a leak, just tighten them a little more!

How To Make The Right Choice When Buying Caulk

The importance of caulk can’t be stressed enough! It’s a simple procedure that can be used both on newly finished projects or as preventative maintenance on your home.

Caulking is the finishing touch to a lot of do it yourself projects. Although, many things don’t need caulking, any project that involves water or air, such as bathtubs and doors do!

While caulking around your new sink or bathtub will most certainly give it a more finished appearance, it is also a necessary step! The caulk will prevent water from draining down into the wall and eventually rotting out your floors and walls!

When used around doors and windows, caulking will help keep both hot and cold air out. It can actually help save you money on heating and cooling bills and keep the temperature in your home more comfortable!

There are several different types of caulk available, but with a little knowledge choosing the right one doesn’t have to be a guessing game.

There are basically four things that you need to consider before buying caulking…..

1. Are you going to be using the caulk indoors or outside? Some       caulks are for indoor use only and will not hold up to the       elements if used outside.

2. How much moisture is going to be in the area you need to caulk?
If it’s a bathtub or sink, you’ll need caulk that is water       resistant.

3. How high or low will the temperature get? An inside project        won’t be as affected by temperature as an outside one. There       are caulks that can stand both high and low temperatures.

4. Last, but not least, you’ll need to consider how easy the caulk
is to apply. While caulking is basically a simple process, some
caulks are harder to work with.

Once, you’ve considered the area in which you’re planning to apply the caulking, you still have to choose the best type for your needs. This little guide will make the decision easier and you’ll have a completed project that will last for years!

Latex Caulk

Latex is very durable, depending on the wear to the area it’s applied, it can last up to 20 years! Another great feature of latex caulk is that you can paint over it to match the rooms decor. But, it’s not a good choice for areas that go through temperature changes, it won’t hold up.

Silicone Caulk

Silicone is a popular choice because it’s effective and durable on many different surfaces. Silicone caulk stays flexible after drying, so it won’t crack and break as easy as some caulks. It’s a perfect choice for sealing windows and doors. But, silicone caulking is harder to apply than some of the other types and it has a bad odor. If you’ve never applied caulking before, this may not be the perfect choice to learn with!

Caulking Cord

Caulking cord is virtually what the name implies! It’s caulking that comes on a roll and looks like a small cord! You just unroll it and cut it to fit the area. It’s a great way to seal off small gaps, but it will only last a few years.

Acrylic Latex Silicone Blend Caulk

As the name implies this caulk is a blend of several types. It is very easy to apply and is very durable. This caulk is good for either indoor or outdoor use and can even be used to seal cracks in stone or brick!

Asphalt Caulk

Asphalt caulk is a heavy duty caulk that is oil based. It can be used in most of the same ways that you use tar, such as sealing cracks around chimneys. It will harden very quickly and last up to four years.

Kitchen and Bath Caulk

This type of caulking should be used in any area where water and moisture are found! It’s the perfect choice for your bathtub, sink or toilet. It can usually be found in a selection of colors and is even mold and mildew resistant!

Butyl Rubber Caulk

This caulking is a great choice for sealing wide cracks and gaps. It can be used to fill in areas that are up to 1/4 inch wide. If applied correctly it will last for up to ten years and is very durable. It can also be found in a variety of colors to blend in with your homes decor.

Caulking Your Newly Finished Project Is Easy

Whether you’re caulking a newly finished project or an existing item in your home, you can do it yourself! Cualking will protect your floors and walls around sinks, bathtubs and toilets. But, it will also help lower your heating and cooling bills when used around doors and windows.

Most types of caulking is fairly inexpensive, but it can save you literally hundreds of dollars. Removing a bathtub and replacing a rotten floor is a huge undertaking!

Most caulks are applied in the same way and are actually simplier to apply than you might think. With the right kind of caulk and a little patience, you can do a professional looking job!

Caulking comes in two different types of containers, you can either purchase it in cartridges or in squeeze tubes. With a squeeze tube, you can just apply the caulking directly from the tube. But, if you purchase cartridges you will also need a caulking gun.

One of the most important things to do when caulking is to clean the area. The area can be cleaned using plain warm water, never use any type of soaps or cleaners. Remove as much of the dirt and dust as possible, these will keep the caulking from adhering.

If you’re re-caulking a area, remove all of the old caulking. You can use a utility knife or even a putty scraper to get all of the old caulking off. If there’s any residue of the old caulking left, you can use some rubbing alcohol on a rag to clean it up.

Since caulking is usually inexpensive, it’s a good idea to try doing a little caulking on a piece of carboard or newspaper first. This is especially helpful if you’ve never applied caulk before. It will give you an idea of how hard to squeeze the caulking to get the thickness of the line you desire.

Cutting the tip of the nozzle whether on a cartridge or a squeeze tube is also important. If your project requires a thin line of caulk, you’ll want to cut close to the tip of the nozzle. And, you’ll want to cut farther down if you need to fill a large gap.

To get a nice even line of caulking, use even pressure to squeeze the tube or caulking gun trigger and move the nozzle at a consistent pace. You should always hold the caulking at a 45 degree angle to apply.

After you’ve gotten all of your caulking applied, you can use a caulking smoother to press it into all of the gaps and cracks. If you don’t have a smoother, you can just wet your finger and use it to smooth the caulk into place.

The drying time depends on the type of caulking that you use. It should tell you how long it will take right on the package. It may only take several hours, but you may need to wait until the next day for it to completely set.

If the caulking was applied around a bathtub or sink, make sure it’s completely set before using them. Water can wash the caulking away and prevent it from drying completely. And, if you’re planning on painting it, the paint will prevent it from getting the air it needs to dry properly.

Tools that You Should Have if You Own a Home

Pretty much every single toolbox has these tools that every homeowner should have. For the do-it-yourselfer these tools are vital for jobs that are completed around the house, both inside and outside. If you do not have these tools, you should, as you will discover that they come in handy when you do jobs around the house. (more…)

How to Replace the Parts In Your Toilet Tank

Are you putting off changing the parts inside your toilets tank because you can’t afford to pay a plumber? Why pay a plumber $50 or more per hour when you can do it yourself?

When you look inside the tank and see all of those parts, you may feel a little challenged. But, they’re all really simple to change and an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver is usually all you’ll need to complete the job!

Toilet Flapper Valve

The flapper valve is the large rubber piece that covers the hole where your tank connects to your toilet bowl. When you push the handle to flush your toilet, a chain raises the valve to release the water in the tank.

You need to turn off the water supply to your toilet and flush it to remove as much water as possible. You can save a lot of aggravation by removing the valve and taking it with you to make sure you purchase the right one.

As you remove the old flapper valve, you’ll notice there are little clips that hold it in place. To install the new one, just do a reverse of removing it!

Toilet Flush Lever

The flush lever is usually held in place by a nut that is tightened up against the inside of the tank. You must first unhook the chain and then loosen up the nut to remove the handle.

There’s a long metal bar attached to the handle. This bar will have several holes in it, these holes are used to adjust the length of the chain.

Once you’ve gotten the handle loose, slide the bar out through the opening. To replace the lever you just slide it back in and tighten the nut back up!

Toilet Float System

The float system requires a little more work to change, but with a little patience it’s still a job you can handle! The float system  controls the amount of water that comes into the tank.

When you flush your toilet the flapper valve is raised to let the water out of the tank. After you’ve flushed, the float system  refills the tank with water!

When the water level in the tank goes down, a switch is activated that starts water running back in to refill the tank. As the water level raises the ball cock raises and flips another switch to turn the water on to refill the tank.

You will need to remove all of the water from the tank by turning  off the water supply and flushing the toilet. There is a large nut at the bottom of the tank, remover this nut and you’ll be able to lift the float out.

This is another item that you will want to take with you when purchasing a new one. There should be rubber gaskets included with the new float kit. You just put the new float system in by following the reverse of how you removed the old one.

Rubber gaskets get old and worn, always take the time to change old gaskets whenever you’re working on anything that uses water. It may take a few minutes, but it can save hours of work and lots of money if you develop  a water leak down the road!

How to Install a New Toilet or Replace the Wax Ring

Whether your old toilet has seen better days or you’re just ready to update your bathroom, you can save lot’s of money by doing it yourself! With just a few basic tools, you can become a home plumber!

This will guide you through the steps you’ll need to take to install a new toilet or replace a wax ring. It’s really not as complicated as you might think!

Turn the water off at the back of the toilet. Once the water has been turned off you will need to flush the toilet several times to make sure there’s no water left in the tank.

If you don’t want to get water everywhere, you can use an old rag to soak up what’s left in the bottom of the tank and bowl. You can use a plunger in the bowl to force most of the water down into the drain pipe!

You can remove the whole toilet at once, but it may be easier to remove it in two separate parts. Especially for those ladies that don’t want to be lifting on the whole toilet!

After you’ve gotten the water turned off, you’ll need to disconnect the pipe running to the bottom of the bowl. Unless you’re going to be replacing the pipe, be careful to not strip the threads.

Now, that you’ve got the pipes disconnected, you’re ready to remove the tank. There are wing nuts located on each side of the bottom of the tank, remove these to lift it off of the bowl.

There are normally plastic caps covering the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor. These caps should be easily removed, but if they’ve became stuck, just use a flat screwdriver or any flat tool to pry them off.

If the bolts that secure the toilet to the floor are rusted you may have to use a lubricant to loosen them. Spray them with a good coating of the lubricant and give it a little time to work. If it seems like no amount of lubricant is going to loosen the nuts, you may have to saw them off.

Now, you’re ready to remove the toilet bowl. You’ll now see the wax seal, never replace a toilet without replacing the wax seal. They’re fairly cheap and can prevent you from having to turn around and remove the toilet because it’s leaking!

You should remove all of the old wax from the flange, the flange is the plastic insert that goes into the drain hole. You can use any kind of wide flat object to scrape the old wax up.

There are several types of wax rings available, some with extensions for higher floors, some that can be stacked. If you’re not sure which one you need, take the old one with you to compare when buying a new one.

Make sure the wax ring is plyable before using it. You can just let it set at room temperature, until it becomes soft enough to make a good seal. If it’s to firm it won’t create a good water tight seal.

You’ll probably want to replace the old bolts that secure the bowl to the floor while you’re at it. Especially if the old ones were real rusty. These should be replace before you apply the wax ring.

You will notice two flat sides and two rounded sides on the heads of the bolts. These different sides will help hold the bolt tightly in place so it won’t turn as you tighten up the nuts.

Turn the bolts sideways until you can get them to line up inside the flange. Often, there is also a plastic piece that will slide around the bolt to secure it even more.

Now, you’re ready to install the wax ring. Position it on top of the flange and get it as even as you can. You don’t need to press it into place, the weight of the toilet bowl will press the wax down to make it seal.

It will save you a lot of time if you use something to mark the position of the bolts. When you place the new toilet bowl in position, you will have to be very careful to avoid any damage to the wax ring.

Once you’ve gotten it in place, tilt the bowl back and forth slightly to make a real good seal. Next, put the nuts back on the bolts and hand tighten them as much as possible.

You want to carefully tighten the nuts with a wrench. You want them tight, but if you tighten them too much it will crack the ceramic toilet. And, not only will you have to start all over, you’ll have to buy another toilet!

Now replace the plastic caps that cover the nuts. These will give your toilet a more finished look, but they can also prevent injuries from the sharp bolts.

Ok, on to the toilet tank!  There’s usually a rubber gasket already attached to the tank. Set it in place and insert the bolts from the inside of the tank. Put the wing nuts back on and tighten them by hand.

You’ll need to use a flat head screwdriver to hold the bolt on the inside of the tank while you tighten the nuts. Again, be very careful not to tighten them too much and crack the ceramic.

With both the toilet bowl bolts and the tank bolts it’s a very good idea to tighten each side a little at a time. This will help prevent the ceramic from getting cracked and also help prevent gaps.

Next reattach the water line! If you’ve bought a new one everything will be included in the package. But, if you’re using the existing one make sure that you use new rubber gaskets.

Now you’re ready to turn the water back on! If you just installed a new toilet, you’ll need to put all the parts inside the tank. But, if you just needed to replace the wax ring because of leaks, you can flush your toilet now!

Use some old rags or a mop and make sure that the floor around the toilet is completely dry. Flush the toilet several times and check the floor for leaks or any dampness. But, if you’ve followed these steps carefylly, you should have years of “dry” usage!

Simple Ways to Save on Gas when Taking Road Trips

When you go on a road trip one of the main expenses can be for gasoline. Just because gas prices are very high these days driving is still one of the cheapest ways to travel. Plus you will be able to see a lot of America if you drive rather than fly. (more…)

Keep Dirt Out of Your Home With the Right Doormat

You should keep as much dirt as you can outside your house, as possible, so you do not have to clean as much of it inside. It is easier to try to prevent the dirt from coming inside than to deal with it once the damage has been done. The best thing you can do to keep dirt out of your home is to use doormats. (more…)

Change Your Own Spark Plugs and Spark Plug Wires

Changing your cars spark plugs may seem like a really intimidating task, but it’s not as complicated as you might think. Almost anyone can change spark plugs with little or no problem and you only need a couple of tools.

Over time spark plugs become covered with carbon deposits, these deposits look like black soot. Carbon can cause your car to lose the power it once had, misfire and can greatly increase gas consumption.

There are some car repairs that are better left to a professional, but there are many things that you can do yourself to save on the costly expense of garage maintenance.

You should never try to work on your car while the engine is hot, especially when your working on anything that is electrical. No matter how careful you are one little slip could result in a serious burn.

A ratchet and a socket are the only tools you will really need, but you can buy a special tool to remove the plugs wires. You don’t really need a tool to remove the wires as long as your careful and don’t pull on the wire itself.

The socket will need to be a deep one, there are sockets especially for spark plugs. It will either be a 13/16 or 5/8, depending on the size of plugs needed for your car.

Just concentrate on one spark plug at a time, never remove all of the wires at once. The spark plug wires have to be in a certain order to each cylinder of your motor, if they’re put back on the wrong plug your car may not start at all.

When you pull the plug wires off make sure to hold the boot of the wire. The boot is the part closest to the plug where it is the thickest, pulling on the wires can break or damage them.

Once you’ve gotten the wire off look around the plug to see if there’s any dirt or debris. You want to be very careful to not let anything fall down inside the motor. If there is anything around the plug you can use a small brush to sweep it out.

After you’ve got it cleaned use the ratchet to remove the plug, you will need to turn it counter clockwise to remove it. Insert the new plug into the hole taking care to keep it straight with the slant of the hole.

Twist the plug in with your fingers as far as you can and then use the ratchet to tighten it. The spark plugs need to be tight, but if you tighten them to much they can break. Once you’ve got the new spark plug in place all that’s left to do is to replace the spark plug wire.

Then just repeat the same steps until you’ve changed all of the plugs. You can of course, just change the spark plugs. But, if your plugs are getting old and worn out then chances are your wires need replaced to.

If you’re changing both the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, you can easily change both at the same time. Just remove the wire from the spark plug and follow it to the back of the motor, pull it loose and replace it with the new wire. Just remember to only do one at a time!

Having your car worked on by a professional is usually pretty expensive. Even a small job such as changing the spark plugs and spark plug wires can cost quite a bit. You can save a lot of money just by doing some of the simpler jobs yourself!

Ladies, I Learned To Change My Oil And So Can You

Changing oil in your vehicle can be done easily at home whether you are a man or a woman. From a woman’s standpoint, changing the oil is not hard to do at all. You will need an oil drain pan, a rag, socket for loosing the oil pan bolt and at least four quarts of oil. Check your owner’s manual to see what they recommend for the type of oil. There are different types of oil for different types of vehicles. You will also need a new oil filter and a filter wrench for loosing the old oil filter.

Once you have all the tools and supplies you need to change the oil, you can put on some old clothes and begin. Some vehicles are so close to the ground that you may need to jack up the front of the vehicle slightly. Place a block behind the two back tires and the passenger side tire to prevent the vehicle from rolling backwards. I prefer to use a floor jack because it is easier to use than the jacks that hook on the bumper. After jacking up the front slightly, place a block or jack stand under the vehicle to prevent the vehicle from slipping off the jack and falling on you.

Now you are ready to begin the oil change. Crawl under the vehicle with your rag, socket and drain pan as well as your new oil filter and filter wrench. Locate the oil pan drain bolt. In most cars, it is on the bottom side, but some can be on the side of the oil pan. Once you locate the bolt, place the drain pan under the bolt and use your socket to loosen the bolt. Once you have it loose, the oil will start to drain out.

While that oil is draining, take your filter wrench, place it around the oil filter, and loosen. You can then unwind it the rest of the way with your hand. Put a rag on the ground under the oil filter because it will have some spillage when you remove it. Do not tip the oil filter because it does have oil in it.

Now you have some time to rest while the oil drains out. The time varies for every vehicle, but the oil usually takes about ten minutes to drain out. Once the oil stops draining, you are ready to replace the bolt and the oil filter. Grab the drain pan out from underneath the vehicle and crawl back under. Use the socket to tighten the oil pan bolt. It is important that you have it tight, but do not over tighten the bolt.

Open one can or bottle of oil and with your finger, rub a little oil on the seal of the new oil filter. Next, move the location where you removed the oil filter. Now you can start winding the new oil filter on until you cannot tighten it any farther. Place the filter wrench on the filter and give it one quick turn or so. Make sure it is tight. You are now done underneath the vehicle.

Take the jack stand out from underneath the vehicle and then slowly lower the floor jack. You can keep the blocks in place until you are done. Now you are ready to move to the engine compartment. First take out the dip stick and clean it. Now take the funnel and place it in the hole after removing the cap. Dump one can or bottle of oil and allow it to empty into the engine.

At this time, you can look underneath and make sure you have no leaks. Repeat this step until all the new oil is in the engine. Replace the oil cap, start the vehicle up, and press on the accelerator to rev the engine a bit. Turn the car off and look underneath to make sure you have no leaks. The last step is to check the dipstick to make sure you have enough oil in the engine. Pull the dipstick out and wipe with a rag, replace and pull out again. Now read the stick to make sure you have enough oil. Remove the blocks from behind the wheels and you are ready to go. Ladies, this is easy to do, after a while you will become faster at changing your own oil.

When You Are Painting Be Aware of the Temperature

When you are painting the exterior of your house when it is cold outside you may not like the results. You have to be aware of the temperature outside when you are painting. (more…)

10 Questions You Should Ask A Contractor Before You Hire Them

You should not just hire a contractor without asking them questions. Your home is one of, if not the, prized possessions in your life and you want to make sure the best possible job is done on your home, no matter what needs to be worked on. By asking the contractor you are looking to hire pertinent questions you can be more comfortable with them being able to do the job. (more…)